The Maldives is a chain of coral atolls scattered across the equatorial Indian Ocean, southwest of Sri Lanka and India. Its roughly twelve hundred islands are tiny and low-lying, but they sit among some of the richest reefs in the world, where manta rays, whale sharks, turtles and reef sharks are part of everyday life on the water.

AT A GLANCE

Best time

December to April for calm, dry weather; May to November for mantas and lower demand.

How long

A week allows one or two islands; ten days or more lets you combine atolls.

Getting there

Fly into Velana International Airport near Malé, then continue by boat, seaplane or domestic flight.

Why visit the Maldives

The obvious draw is the water. Each atoll is a ring of reefs and islands enclosing a lagoon, and the channels between them funnel nutrient-rich currents that attract large marine life.

There is more to the country than the view from a villa. The Maldives has its own language, Dhivehi, a history as a sultanate on Indian Ocean trade routes, and a distinctive island culture shaped by fishing and the sea. Staying on a local island, eating in a teashop and watching the tuna boats come in gives a fuller picture.

Malé and its neighbors

Malé is one of the most densely built capitals in the world, a small island almost entirely covered by colorful buildings, mosques and narrow streets busy with motorbikes.

Hukuru Miskiy and the Islamic Centre

The Old Friday Mosque, Hukuru Miskiy, was built in the seventeenth century from blocks of coral stone that were carved and fitted together, and its interior is decorated with lacquerwork and wood carving.

Old coral stone mosque with a white minaret and a graveyard of carved headstones in Malé, Maldives
Hukuru Miskiy, the Old Friday Mosque in Malé, was built from carved coral stone in the seventeenth century.Photo: Zairon, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Malé fish and produce markets

On the northern waterfront, the fish market comes alive in the afternoon when fishing boats unload skipjack and yellowfin tuna, which are cleaned and cut on tiled tables.

Rows of fresh tuna laid out on tiled tables at the fish market in Malé, Maldives
Fishermen land skipjack and yellowfin tuna each afternoon at the fish market on Malé's northern waterfront.Photo: Hansueli Krapf, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

Close by, Sultan Park and the National Museum show royal artifacts and pre-Islamic coral carvings, while Republic Square on the waterfront is a good place to watch daily life. Check the museum's current hours before you go.

Hulhumalé

Just north of the airport, Hulhumalé is a reclaimed island built to ease crowding in Malé.

Long cable-stayed bridge crossing the sea between Malé and Hulhulé island, Maldives
The Sinamalé Bridge links Malé with Hulhulé, the airport island, and onward to Hulhumalé.Photo: Syced, Wikimedia Commons, CC0

Hulhumalé's beach is at its best in the late afternoon, when families gather on the sand and the planes landing at the airport add to the scene.

Long white beach with shallow turquoise water at Hulhumalé, Maldives
Hulhumalé, a reclaimed island next to the airport, has a long public beach and a growing number of guesthouses.Photo: FaysaLBinDaruL, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Local islands and the central atolls

Maafushi

In South Malé Atoll, Maafushi was one of the first local islands to open to guesthouse tourism, and it now has dozens of small guesthouses, dive centers and excursion operators.

Guesthouses and palm trees beside a white sand beach on Maafushi island, Maldives
Maafushi in South Malé Atoll was one of the first local islands to develop guesthouse tourism.Photo: Nattu from Male', Maldives, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Thoddoo

In Alif Alif Atoll, Thoddoo is known for its farms, which grow watermelons, papayas and other fruit, and for an archaeological site linked to the Buddhist period before the Maldives converted to Islam in the twelfth century. Its beaches and house reef are good for snorkeling.

Banana Reef and North Malé Atoll

Close to the airport, North Malé Atoll has many of the country's oldest resorts and classic dive sites. Banana Reef, a protected marine area, was one of the first dive sites to become famous in the Maldives, with caves, overhangs and abundant fish.

Hanifaru Bay, Baa Atoll

Baa Atoll is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and its most famous site is Hanifaru Bay, a small reef inlet where plankton gathers during the southwest monsoon and draws large numbers of feeding manta rays and sometimes whale sharks.

Manta rays feeding near the surface in the blue water of Hanifaru Bay, Maldives
Hanifaru Bay in Baa Atoll is known for large seasonal gatherings of feeding manta rays.Photo: Tchami, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

South Ari Atoll

The outer reef of South Ari Atoll, near islands such as Dhigurah and Maamigili, is one of the few places in the world where whale sharks can be seen year-round.

Spotted whale shark swimming near the surface of the sea in the Maldives
Whale sharks can be seen year-round along the outer reef of South Ari Atoll.Photo: Dapaan, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

The deep south

Fuvahmulah

Fuvahmulah is unusual: a single island forming its own atoll, without a surrounding lagoon, so deep water reaches close to shore. It has become famous among divers for regular encounters with tiger sharks, along with thresher sharks, hammerheads and oceanic manta rays in certain seasons.

Coastline of Fuvahmulah with waves breaking on a pebble beach, Maldives
Fuvahmulah is a single-island atoll in the far south of the Maldives with freshwater lakes and dramatic shark diving.Photo: Asaymirus, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Addu Atoll

The southernmost atoll, just south of the equator, Addu has several islands linked by causeways and a road, so you can cycle or drive between them. Gan was a British Royal Air Force base until the 1970s, and traces of that era remain in old buildings and a memorial.

Palm-lined road and causeway connecting islands in Addu Atoll, Maldives
Addu Atoll, the southernmost in the Maldives, has islands linked by a causeway and a former British air base at Gan.Photo: ╚ DD╔ from Male, Maldives, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

Food and local flavors

Maldivian food revolves around tuna, coconut, chili and starches such as rice and roshi, a thin flatbread. The classic breakfast is mas huni, a mixture of shredded smoked tuna, grated coconut, onion, chili and lime eaten with roshi and sweet tea.

Teashops, called hotaa, serve hedhikaa, small savory snacks such as gulha, fried dough balls filled with tuna and coconut, and masroshi, flatbread stuffed with spiced tuna.

Where to stay

Resort islands: Each resort occupies its own island, with villas over the water or on the beach, restaurants, a spa and usually a dive center and house reef.

Local islands with guesthouses: Islands such as Maafushi, Thoddoo, Dhigurah, Fulidhoo and others in Vaavu, Ari and Baa atolls offer guesthouses run by Maldivian families.

Liveaboards: Dive and snorkel boats cruise between atolls for a week or more.

Hulhumalé: Guesthouses and city hotels here suit a first or last night near the airport, especially with late arrivals or early departures.

Best time to visit

The Maldives is warm all year, with water temperatures that rarely drop below the high twenties Celsius.

The southwest monsoon, from about May to November, is wetter and windier, with periods of rain and rough seas, though there are often long sunny spells.

The holy month of Ramadan follows the Islamic lunar calendar and shifts each year. During it, local islands are quieter by day and many cafes close until sunset, while resorts operate as usual.

Getting there and getting around

Velana International Airport sits on Hulhulé island next to Malé and is served by direct flights from the Middle East, South Asia, Europe and East Asia.

Seaplanes fly only in daylight, so late international arrivals may require a night near the airport. Public ferries connect many local islands with Malé and are slow but inexpensive, with limited schedules and sometimes no service on Fridays.

A suggested itinerary

First and second days

Arrive and spend your first night in Hulhumalé.

Third and fourth days

Join a snorkeling trip to sandbanks and reefs, and consider a dive at a nearby channel. Spend an evening at a local teashop trying hedhikaa.

Fifth to seventh days

Transfer to Dhigurah in South Ari Atoll for whale shark excursions and beach time, or, between May and November, fly to Baa Atoll for a snorkel at Hanifaru Bay.

Practical tips

  • Do not bring alcohol, pork products or religious idols into the country, as customs regulations prohibit them.
  • On local islands cover shoulders and knees away from designated swimwear beaches, and keep public displays of affection low-key.
  • Book transfers together with your accommodation, since seaplanes do not fly after dark and boat times are limited.
  • Use reef-safe sunscreen and never stand on or touch coral, turtles or other marine life.
  • Carry some local currency for teashops, ferries and small shops, as card acceptance varies on local islands.
  • Check that dive operators are licensed and follow protected area rules at sites such as Hanifaru Bay.