La Malbaie is a small city on the north shore of the St. Lawrence River in Charlevoix, Quebec, set where the Malbaie River meets the water.
AT A GLANCE
Best time
Early summer for lilacs and long days, autumn for colour, and winter if you plan to ski nearby.
How long
Two or three days cover the town, the gardens and a day in the Hautes-Gorges park.
Getting there
Drive Route 138 from Quebec City in under two hours, or take the Intercar bus.
Why visit La Malbaie
La Malbaie sits inside an ancient meteorite crater about 54 kilometres wide, whose uplifted centre and eroded rim shaped the hills and valleys around Charlevoix. The region became a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 1989, and the town is often described as Canada's first resort area.
Today it is easy to fill several days with gardens, a river drive, a gorge hike, local food and a slow pace. The riverfront setting makes even short walks feel scenic, and the villages along the shore each have their own character, from the grand summer houses of Pointe-au-Pic to the quiet lanes of Cap-à-l'Aigle.
Pointe-au-Pic and the river
Manoir Richelieu
The Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu was rebuilt in 1929 in the Châteauesque style after a fire and sits on a cliff above the St. Lawrence. It hosted the G7 summit in 2018, and the Casino de Charlevoix adjoins it. You can admire the building and the river views from the grounds even if you are not staying there.
Musée de Charlevoix and the Pointe-au-Pic church
The Musée de Charlevoix, on the west side of the bay, focuses on folk art, regional history and culture, and it is part of the Circuit des sept lieux. The Pointe-au-Pic church on rue Richelieu belongs to the religious heritage circuit. Allow an hour or two for both.
Charlevoix astroblème centre
An interpretation centre about the Charlevoix impact crater opened in 2014 in the former club house of the Manoir Richelieu. An astronomical observatory also offers geology outings and stargazing sessions on clear evenings in summer. Check the schedule before you go.
Gardens and workshops east of the river
Jardins des lilas de Cap-à-l'Aigle
This 19-hectare garden holds one of the most prestigious lilac collections in the world, and the village calls itself the world capital of lilac. It also has a commemorative garden and a shady woodland path.
Jardins des Quatre-Vents
This private arboretum in the Cap-à-l'Aigle sector is considered one of the finest residential gardens in North America. It is visited by reservation, so check the official website before planning your day.
Forge-menuiserie Cauchon
A working forge with guided tours and a picnic area on the Malbaie River, this small economuseum is also on the Circuit des sept lieux.
Beyond town
Domaine Forget
In Saint-Irénée, just southwest of La Malbaie, the Domaine Forget is a music and dance academy that also hosts an international music festival in its concert hall. Check the programme in advance and book ahead for popular concerts.
Route du Fleuve
Route 362 is a panoramic drive of about 58 kilometres from Baie-Saint-Paul to La Malbaie through Les Éboulements and Saint-Irénée. The views change through the day with the fog, light, passing boats and weather.
Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park
About 30 kilometres north of Route 138 from Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs, this park centres on a deep valley with walls over 800 metres high. Cars are not allowed beyond the gate, so you register, park and take a shuttle bus.
Baie-Saint-Paul
Southwest along the coast, Baie-Saint-Paul is a small town with several art galleries and the Musée d'art contemporain. It is a good place for lunch or a gallery stop on the way back toward Quebec City.
Food and local flavors
Start with tourtière, the traditional Quebec meat pie. In eastern Quebec it is often a deep-dish pie of slow-cooked meat and potatoes. Charlevoix lamb is a regional specialty, raised on farms around the area such as in Saint-Urbain. Cheese lovers should look for Migneron de Charlevoix and other local cheeses. The Route des Saveurs links producers between Petite-Rivière-Saint-François and La Malbaie, with ciders, cheeses, chocolates, organic meats and market-garden produce to taste or buy.
Popular dishes to try in La Malbaie
Where to stay
Pointe-au-Pic is the classic base, with the historic hotel district, the museum and riverfront views close together, so it suits first-time visitors and couples. Cap-à-l'Aigle is quieter and more village-like, which suits garden lovers and travellers who want views and a slower pace. Baie-Saint-Paul sits to the southwest and suits art lovers, with galleries, restaurants and easy access to the Route du Fleuve.
Where to stay in La Malbaie
Best time to visit
Summer is the main season, with long days, the lilacs in early summer, summer concerts at the Domaine Forget and astronomy evenings at the observatory. Autumn brings colour to the hills, and the river drive is especially pretty. Winter suits skiers, because the Le Massif de Petite-Rivière-Saint-François ski area is nearby, but some attractions close or reduce their hours.
Getting there and getting around
La Malbaie lies on Route 138 along the north shore, about 141 kilometres and under two hours by road from Quebec City, and roughly four to five hours from Montreal. The nearest major airport is Quebec City. Intercar runs a daily bus route between Montreal, Quebec City and Baie-Comeau with several stops in La Malbaie. From the north, the short ferry between Baie-Sainte-Catherine and Tadoussac links to the town, and a longer ferry runs from Rivière-du-Loup to Saint-Siméon.
A suggested itinerary
First day
Walk around Pointe-au-Pic, visit the Musée de Charlevoix and the astroblème centre, then see the Manoir Richelieu at sunset.
Second day
Spend the morning in the Cap-à-l'Aigle gardens and the Cauchon forge, then drive the Route du Fleuve to Saint-Irénée for a concert or a meal.
Third day
Head to the Hautes-Gorges park for a hike or river cruise, then end with a tasting stop on the Route des Saveurs.
Practical tips
- Book the Jardins des Quatre-Vents in advance, as visits are by reservation.
- Plan your Hautes-Gorges day around the shuttle, since private cars are not allowed beyond the gate.
- Check ferry schedules for the Tadoussac and Saint-Siméon crossings before you travel.
- Pack layers, because the wind off the St. Lawrence can feel cool even in summer.
- Learn a few French phrases, since French is the main language of daily life in the region.
- Check opening seasons for the forge, observatory and gardens before you go.
