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Asunción curves along a broad bay of the Paraguay River, a relaxed capital where pink lapacho blossoms, colonial facades and new glass towers share the skyline. Life moves at an unhurried pace, and on almost every corner someone is sharing tereré, the iced herbal drink that is a national ritual.
Founded by Spanish explorers in 1537, it is one of the oldest cities in South America and became a base for settling much of the region, earning the nickname Mother of Cities. Paraguay's independence was won here in a bloodless revolt in May 1811, and the 19th-century López presidents left the grand buildings that still line the riverfront.
Most sights sit in the compact centre: the Palacio de los López, the domed National Pantheon of the Heroes, the cathedral and the old Cabildo, all close to the riverside Costanera. Beyond them, the painted lanes of Loma San Jerónimo, the bustle of Mercado 4 and the superb Museo del Barro show the city's everyday and artistic sides.
Modelled on Les Invalides in Paris, this domed mausoleum was begun in 1863, halted by the War of the Triple Alliance and only finished in 1936. It holds the remains of national heroes, including both López presidents. A ceremonial guard stands at the door, and a visit takes a few minutes.
Built in the 1850s and 1860s for Francisco Solano López, this white neoclassical palace above the bay is now the seat of Paraguay's presidency. It looks finest floodlit at night, seen from the Costanera or the gardens in front. Interior visits are limited, so most people admire it from outside.
Facing the Plaza de la Independencia above the river, the cathedral is the seat of one of the oldest dioceses in South America. The present building, with its pale facade and twin towers, dates from the 1840s. The interior is calm and simple; visit outside Mass and pair it with the Cabildo.
Opened in the 1860s for one of the first railways in South America, the elegant station on Plaza Uruguaya now works as a railway museum. Old carriages and an early steam locomotive stand beside the platform. Check opening times first, then stroll the shaded plaza outside afterwards.
In this whitewashed late colonial house, patriots met in secret on the night of 14 May 1811 before the revolt that ended Spanish rule. Its rooms keep period furniture, documents and portraits, with the narrow Callejón Comuneros beside it. Half an hour is enough; check opening days first.
This arcaded 19th-century building near the cathedral once housed Paraguay's congress and is now the Centro Cultural de la República. Rooms cover national history, indigenous art, ceramics and musical instruments, with changing shows. It is a good first stop for context on the old centre.
Facing the Palacio de los López, this block of restored houses from the 18th to 20th centuries is a municipal cultural centre. The oldest, Casa Viola, holds the Museo Memoria de la Ciudad, with maps and photographs of the growing city. Its shaded patios also host exhibitions and concerts.
East of the centre, this museum gathers indigenous art from the Chaco and eastern Paraguay, popular crafts such as ceramics, carved wood and ñandutí lace, and contemporary Paraguayan painting. Founded by artists and critics including Ticio Escobar, it is a highlight of the city. Allow two hours.
This promenade follows the bay of the Paraguay River below the old centre, with wide paths for walking, cycling and skating and views across to the low Chaco shore. Sunset brings joggers, families and groups sharing tereré. Keep to the main lit stretch in the evening for the best atmosphere.
The city's oldest theatre traces its roots to 1855 and has carried the name of poet and sociologist Ignacio A. Pane since 1949. Its restored horseshoe hall, with stalls ringed by three tiers of boxes, seats about 700 for concerts, ballet and drama. Check the programme and book early for big nights.
The city's biggest market sprawls over several blocks around Avenida Pettirossi, selling produce, tereré herbs, clothing, electronics and chipa, with cheap eateries tucked in between. Paraguayan, Korean and Chinese traders work side by side. Go in the morning and keep a close eye on your pockets.
North of the centre, this large park fills the former country estate of the López family, whose 19th-century house now holds a natural history museum. Shady paths wind through woodland, gardens and a modest zoo of native animals. Weekends bring picnicking families, while weekdays are quieter.
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