Uxmal Mexico Pyramid of the Magician and Puuc Route Ruins

Why visit Uxmal

Uxmal means built three times in the Maya language, a reference to its many phases of construction.

The site is compact and walkable, so you can see its main groups in a few hours without the long distances of larger ruins. It is also an easy base for the other Puuc sites to the south.

Uxmal also works well as the first stop on a wider Yucatán trip. Mérida is close enough for day trips, and the smaller sites on the Puuc route show how the same architectural style spread across the hills, with each one adding its own character to the story.

Inside the archaeological zone

Pyramid of the Magician

Just beyond the entrance, this rounded pyramid is the tallest structure at Uxmal at about 35 metres. Legend says the god Itzamna built it in a single night, but archaeologists find at least five building phases.

The pyramid was built in several phases and rises about 35 metres above the site. Photo: Myotus, Wikimedia Commons, CC0

Nunnery Quadrangle

The Spanish gave this large complex its name because it reminded them of a European convent. It was probably used as a school for training healers, astrologers and priests.

The Nunnery Quadrangle was named by the Spanish because it reminded them of a European convent. Photo: Wilhelm Schirp Laabs (d. 1948), Wikimedia Commons, Public domain

Governor's Palace

This is a fine example of stone mosaic work, likely created by hundreds of masons and sculptors. The long facade carries sculptures of the rain god Chaac, serpents and astronomical symbols.

The Governor's Palace is known for its stone mosaic facade and sculptures of the rain god Chaac. Photo: Uncredited for Underwood & Underwood, Wikimedia Commons, Public domain

House of the Turtles and the Dovecote

The House of the Turtles is decorated with turtle sculptures, which the Maya associated with rain. Nearby, the Dovecote is a building with many separate chambers, and the House of the Old Woman is close by.

The House of the Turtles is decorated with turtle sculptures associated with rain. Photo: Wilhelm Schirp Laabs (d. 1948), Wikimedia Commons, Public domain

Nearby sites and the Puuc route

Choco-Story

Across the highway from the archaeological site, this museum explains traditional Maya methods of growing and processing cacao. You can taste samples, and the grounds also shelter rescued animals.

Choco-Story shows traditional Maya methods of growing and processing chocolate. Photo: Sharon Hahn Darlin, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Kabah

The highway south from Uxmal passes through the ruins of Kabah, and the highlight is the Codz Poop, a temple covered in masks. It is a short and easy stop on the Puuc route.

The Codz Poop at Kabah is known as the temple of masks. Photo: Gary Todd, Wikimedia Commons, CC0

Sayil

Sayil flourished briefly in the Terminal Classic period and is a prominent example of monumental Puuc style architecture. Its multi-level palace is the main attraction.

Sayil is a late Classic Maya site on the Puuc route south of Uxmal. Photo: Gary Todd, Wikimedia Commons, CC0

Labna

Labna reached its peak between about 800 and 1000 and shares decorative elements with Uxmal, Sayil and Kabah. It has some distinctive features that set it apart from its neighbours.

Labna is one of the Puuc sites south of Uxmal and shares its architectural style. Photo: Frederick Catherwood (d. 1854), Wikimedia Commons, Public domain

Food and local flavors

Uxmal sits in the heart of Yucatecan cooking. Relleno negro is a rich stew of turkey, pork and charred chile paste, traditionally prepared around the Hanal Pixán festival in November.

At Choco-Story, you can try traditional Maya chocolate, a drink with deep local roots. In the village of Santa Elena, El Chac Mool offers inexpensive local food, and Restaurante La Central a few blocks into town has similar regional dishes.

Popular dishes to try in Uxmal

Where to stay

Staying near the ruins puts you a short distance from the gates, and there are several hotels along the highway.

Santa Elena is a village not far from Uxmal, with simple accommodation and family-run restaurants. It suits budget-minded travellers who enjoy local atmosphere and an easy base for the Puuc route.

Mérida is the regional capital, about 85 kilometres away, with a wide choice of lodging, museums and markets.

Add the local taxes on room rates when you compare lodging, and book ahead for the dry season when demand is highest.

Where to stay in Uxmal

Best time to visit

The dry season, from roughly November to April, brings the most comfortable conditions for walking between the building groups. The site is hot and the sun is strong across southern Mexico, so go early and bring a hat, sunscreen and insect repellent.

Hanal Pixán, the Yucatec Maya festival of the dead, takes place around the start of November and is a good moment to find traditional dishes such as relleno negro.

Getting there and getting around

Uxmal is about 85 kilometres southwest of Mérida. By car, take federal highway 180 west for about 15 kilometres, then turn south onto highway 261 for about 40 kilometres, following the signs.

Buses from Mérida run on a limited schedule, so check times in advance and plan your return. Admission is paid at two adjacent windows, with a card accepted at one and cash only at the other, so carry cash.

A suggested itinerary

Practical tips

• Check your government's current travel advisory before you go.
• Bring a hat, sunscreen and insect repellent, since the site is hot and surrounded by jungle.
• Walk carefully, stay on marked trails and avoid touching fragile carvings.
• Pay the two admission windows separately, and keep cash for the one that does not take cards.
• Check bus and Tren Maya schedules in advance, as services have changed in recent years.
• Start early so that you reach the Puuc sites before the hottest hours.