Isla Mujeres Mexico Whale Sharks and Playa Norte

Why visit Isla Mujeres

The island was a sanctuary to Ixchel, goddess of fertility, for about a thousand years. In the early nineteenth century it was also a haven for pirates, including Mundaca, who built a hacienda here.

The island is about seven kilometres long, and the town area is compact and walkable.

Beaches and the north end

Playa Norte

The beach on the northern end has shallow water and soft white sand, and it is where most visitors spend their beach time. Restaurants and bars line the shore, so it can be busy in peak season. Arrive in the morning for calmer water and space to lay out your towel, and stay for lunch under a palapa. The sea here is calm and shallow near the shore, which makes it a good choice for children and for slow swims, and there are beach volleyball games on the wide, level sand.

Playa Sol

On the northwestern tip next to Playa Norte, Playa Sol is the best place to watch the sunset. It is usually a little less crowded, though the water is deeper and not as shallow. Bring a drink and settle in around late afternoon. Many people walk over from Playa Norte after a day in the water, so the sunset crowd builds gradually and then thins out soon after dark.

Playa Sol on the island northwest tip is a favourite spot for sunsets. Photo: René Bongard, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

The town and square

The compact centre is easy to cover on foot, with small shops, silver and stone carvings, and a town square where vendors sell corn and tamales. Hidalgo Street is the liveliest strip for restaurants. Wander at dusk when the heat has eased.

The compact town centre is easy to explore on foot. Photo: Larry D. Moore, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0

The south end and the water

Punta Sur

At the southern tip, a small ruin marks the site of a temple to Ixchel, and a sculpture park sits nearby. It is the highest point on the island, with sea views in several directions.

Punta Sur at the southern tip has sculptures and the ruins of a temple to Ixchel. Photo: Suwanosejima, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Museo Subacuatico de Arte

The underwater museum is a sculpture garden south of the island that doubles as a reef for fish, coral and turtles. Reach it by hire boat or a tour with a divemaster. Both snorkelling and scuba trips are common, so book a trip with a licensed operator.

The Museo Subacuatico de Arte is an underwater sculpture garden south of the island. Photo: Andy Blackledge from Scottsdale, AZ, USA, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Garrafon Reef Park

The southern side lacks a sandy beach but offers snorkelling, with plenty of fish in clear water. The reef inside the protective buoys has suffered from storms and careless snorkelling, so look but do not touch, and use reef safe sun cream.

Garrafon on the south side of the island is known for snorkelling. Photo: Carey Akin, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

Hacienda Mundaca

This nineteenth century hacienda was built by the pirate Fermin Mundaca on the road to Garrafon. It has walls, arches and gardens. It is a short stop on a golf cart circuit, so bring water and take your time among the plants.

Hacienda Mundaca was built in the nineteenth century by Fermin Mundaca. Photo: Ernestobanpiroa, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Whale sharks and diving

Whale shark tours

From mid-May through September hundreds of whale sharks gather near the island, with peak season in July and August. Choose official operators who follow the rules that protect the animals, and keep your distance in the water.

Whale sharks gather near Isla Mujeres from mid-May through September. Photo: Bernard DUPONT, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

Food and local flavors

Fresh fish is bountiful, and ceviche is popular and delicious. Try the island signature, Tik-n-chik, a whole fish marinated in achiote and grilled. Grilled lobster is another favourite, and you can find it from simple beach shacks to proper dinners.

For quick bites, the street tacos at taquerias in the middle of the island are a local favourite. Taco stands, corn vendors and tamale sellers set up around the town square.

Popular dishes to try in Isla Mujeres

Where to stay

Centro is the heart of town and puts the ferry dock, restaurants, shops and nightlife within a short walk. It suits first time visitors and anyone who wants to skip the golf cart.

Playa Norte is the beach district, with hotels steps from shallow water. It suits families, couples and beach lovers who like to spend the whole day on the sand.

Where to stay in Isla Mujeres

Best time to visit

Peak season runs through the winter months, when temperatures are cooler and the island is busiest. Summers are hot, with blazing sun and highs well over 32 degrees Celsius.

From mid-May through September, whale sharks gather in the nearby water, which makes summer a special time to visit for wildlife lovers.

Getting there and getting around

Cancun International Airport is the nearest airport. From there you can take a ferry to the island. Ultramar ferries run from Puerto Juarez, which takes about eighteen minutes, and from Playa Caracol and Playa Tortugas in the hotel zone.

On the island, the main town is very walkable, and taxis from the ferry terminal reach most places in town. To see the far side of the island, rent a golf cart or scooter.

A suggested itinerary

Practical tips

• Check your government's current travel advisory before you go.
• Use reef safe sun cream and do not touch coral or marine life.
• Choose official whale shark operators that follow protection rules.
• Carry some small notes for taxis, tips and market stalls.
• Learn a few Spanish phrases, as they help in small restaurants.