Temagami is a small town on Highway 11 in northeastern Ontario, and it is the doorway to one of the great canoe country regions of the Canadian Shield. Deep lakes, island dotted bays, old growth pine and a network of portages stretch in every direction, yet the town itself is easy to reach and comfortable to explore on foot.

AT A GLANCE

Best time

Late June to early September for swimming, paddling and park access, or autumn for colour.

How long

Plan two or three days, or a week if you want to canoe.

Getting there

Drive Highway 11 about 80 kilometres north of North Bay, or take the Ontario Northland bus.

Why visit Temagami

The Temagami region is known as n'Daki Menan, the homeland of the Temagami First Nation, most of whom are Anishinaabe and live on Bear Island. People have lived here for thousands of years, and the lake itself takes its name from an Ojibwe phrase meaning deep water by the shore.

For visitors, that means big scenery on a human scale. You can climb a fire tower in the morning, paddle among islands in the afternoon and be back in town for dinner, or push into backcountry parks with canoe routes that run for hundreds of kilometres.

The best places to visit in and around town

Temagami Fire Tower on Caribou Mountain

A short hike leads to the summit of Caribou Mountain, where a renovated 100 foot fire tower gives the best view of the whole Temagami area. The tower is about 400 feet above the town, and visitors can climb it free of charge.

Temagami Fire Tower on the summit of Caribou Mountain, Ontario
The Temagami Fire Tower is a restored 100 foot lookout on Caribou Mountain.Photo: Paul LaRocque, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0

Lake Temagami

The lake stretches almost 50 kilometres from north to south and has about 1,259 islands, the largest being Temagami Island. Because building was restricted by the old forest reserve, cottages are allowed only on the islands, which keeps much of the shoreline wild.

Islands and pines on Lake Temagami in northeastern Ontario
Lake Temagami is dotted with islands, and cottage building is limited to those islands.Photo: Enoch Leung, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

Finlayson Point Provincial Park

Just west of Highway 11, this small park provides access to Lake Temagami, a campground and a plaque honouring Grey Owl, the writer and conservationist who worked here as a guide, though his claim to Indigenous ancestry was later shown to be false. It is open from the Victoria Day weekend to Labour Day.

Shoreline at Finlayson Point Provincial Park on Lake Temagami, Ontario
Finlayson Point Provincial Park sits just west of Highway 11 and offers access to Lake Temagami.Photo: David Whelan, Wikimedia Commons, CC0

Temagami Railway Station

On Highway 11, the former railway station has been restored to its original appearance and is no longer used for trains. The waiting area and mezzanine are open to the public free of charge during business hours.

The restored railway station building in Temagami beside Highway 11, Ontario
The former railway station in Temagami has been restored to its original appearance.Photo: P199, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.5

Old growth forests and wilderness parks

Wakimika Triangle and White Bear Forest

Temagami is famous for old growth pine. The Wakimika Triangle, part of the Obabika River area, is described as the world's largest stand of old growth red and white pine at about 25 square kilometres, and White Bear Forest covers about 12 square kilometres.

Old growth red and white pine trees in the Temagami area, Ontario
Temagami holds some of the largest remaining stands of old growth red and white pine in Ontario.Photo: Richard Trenchard, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater Provincial Park

North of Lake Temagami, this remote park covers about 72,000 hectares of rugged hills, clear lakes, waterfalls and rivers. It is meant for backcountry canoeing, hiking and fishing, with 77 backcountry campsites, and every visitor needs a permit.

Canoe route and lake in Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater Provincial Park, Temagami, Ontario
Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater Provincial Park is a remote wilderness park north of Lake Temagami.Photo: D. Gordon E. Robertson, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

Ishpatina Ridge

Inside Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater lies Ishpatina Ridge, the highest point of land in Ontario at about 693 metres. It is hard to reach, usually by canoe and portage, so it suits experienced trippers.

Forested hills of Ishpatina Ridge, the highest point in Ontario, Temagami, Ontario
Ishpatina Ridge is the highest point of land in Ontario at about 693 metres.Photo: Brightguy88, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Day trips along Highway 11

Marten River Provincial Park

About 40 kilometres south of Temagami, Marten River Provincial Park has a replica of a nineteenth century logging camp, with a logging museum, camp buildings and period equipment. The Transition Trail passes a white pine that is about 350 years old.

Replica logging camp buildings at Marten River Provincial Park, Temagami, Ontario
Marten River Provincial Park features a replica of a turn of the century logging camp.Photo: Margivy, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Cobalt

Roughly 35 minutes north on Highway 11, Cobalt is a former silver mining town where a rush began in 1903. By 1908 the camp was the world's largest producer of silver, and today the town is known as the birthplace of hard rock mining in Canada.

Historic mining town streetscape in Cobalt Ontario, Temagami, Ontario
Cobalt is known as the birthplace of hard rock mining in Canada.Photo: Chandel Gambles, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Temiskaming Shores

Past Cobalt, the city of Temiskaming Shores combines the former communities of Haileybury, New Liskeard and Dymond. It offers a wider choice of restaurants and shops.

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Food and local flavors

Temagami is a small community, so food is simple and hearty, built around the lakes and the forest. Walleye and lake trout are favourite catches for anglers, and fresh fish suits a simple shore meal. Butter tarts, the gooey pastry shells that Ontarians treat as a point of pride, appear at bakeries and roadside stops. Maple syrup is another Ontario staple, served on pancakes or bought as a souvenir. Along Highway 11 you will find a few diners, a restaurant at the gas station and roadside chip stands in summer, and Marten River has a seasonal restaurant.

Where to stay

Temagami itself suits first time visitors who want motels and cabins along Highway 11 with the station, fire tower trail and shops close at hand. Lake Temagami offers the more immersive option, with cottages, lodges and houseboats on the water, which is ideal for families and groups who plan to paddle and fish. Marten River works for travellers heading north or south along the highway and offers motel rooms and nearby camping.

Best time to visit

Summer is the main season, when the lake is warm enough for swimming, canoe routes are open and the provincial parks run their services. Canada Day weekend brings a lively town celebration with games on the waterfront and fireworks over the bay. Autumn is quieter and colourful, with cooler nights and fewer visitors. Winters are long and snowy, and snowmobiling and winter driving are the main draws, but park services close.

Getting there and getting around

Temagami lies directly on Highway 11, the Trans-Canada route between North Bay and Temiskaming Shores. North Bay is about an hour south and is served by Jack Garland Airport, while Cobalt and Temiskaming Shores are roughly 35 minutes north. Ontario Northland coaches run between North Bay and Timmins and stop in Temagami, Cobalt and Temiskaming Shores. Most of the town is small enough to walk, but a car is far more useful for Marten River, trailheads and Cobalt.

A suggested itinerary

First day

Arrive in Temagami, stop at the railway station for information and walk up to the Fire Tower.

Second day

Rent a canoe or book a boat trip on Lake Temagami and explore the islands. Ask your outfitter about old growth pine hikes and return for a lakeside dinner.

Third day

Drive north to Cobalt for its mining heritage and continue to Temiskaming Shores for lunch.

Practical tips

  • Pack insect repellent and layers, since the weather can change quickly near the lake.
  • Obtain permits and talk to an outfitter before entering Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater or any backcountry area.
  • Check opening dates for provincial parks, which usually run from the Victoria Day weekend to Labour Day.
  • Fill your fuel tank and stock groceries in North Bay or Temiskaming Shores before a long stay.
  • Respect Temagami First Nation lands and ask permission before visiting Bear Island.