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Few Chinese cities wear their seafaring past as openly as Quanzhou. Under the Song and Yuan dynasties it was one of the busiest ports in the world, known to Arab and European travellers as Zayton, and in 2021 a series of its monuments was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as an emporium of the maritime Silk Road.
That cosmopolitan history is written in stone across the old town. Buddhist pagodas rise at Kaiyuan Temple, a Song-era mosque gateway stands on Tumen Street beside a busy temple to Guan Yu, and the sea goddess Mazu is honoured at one of her oldest shrines. The Maritime Museum keeps a medieval ocean-going ship and gravestones carved for Muslim, Christian and Hindu merchants.
Today Quanzhou is a large manufacturing city in southern Fujian, but its centre still has red-brick houses, arcaded streets and lively snack stalls. Qingyuan Mountain rises just to the north with its giant stone Laozi, and the ancient Luoyang Bridge spans the estuary to the east. Xiamen is a short high-speed train ride away.
Founded in the Tang dynasty, Quanzhou's largest Buddhist temple is famed for the twin granite pagodas, Zhenguo and Renshou, that rise above its courtyards. In the main hall, carved flying apsaras hold up the roof beams, and some rear columns carry Hindu carvings reused from a long-lost temple.
Founded in 1009 by Arab merchants, this is one of the oldest mosques in China and a reminder of Quanzhou's role on the maritime Silk Road. Its tall granite gateway with a pointed arch is the best-preserved part, while the roofless prayer hall shows its stone walls. It stands on busy Tumen Street.
Built in 1196 near the old southern gate and river port, this is one of the oldest and grandest temples to Mazu, goddess of the sea and protector of sailors. Elaborate roof ridges, carved stone and painted halls show southern Fujian craftsmanship, and a museum inside traces Mazu worship.
A few steps from Qingjing Mosque on Tumen Street, this temple to the warrior god Guan Yu is one of the busiest in the city, with incense smoke drifting over worshippers throughout the day. Its curving swallowtail roof ridges are crowded with ceramic figures. Visit respectfully and avoid using flash.
Built between 1053 and 1059 under the official Cai Xiang, this long stone beam bridge crosses the Luoyang River estuary on the city's north-east edge. Its builders famously grew oysters on the foundations to bind the stones together. Walk across to see the boat-shaped piers and old stone guardians.
Founded in the Song dynasty, this Confucian temple complex near Zhongshan Road is where local scholars once honoured Confucius before the imperial exams. Its broad Dacheng Hall, with sweeping double eaves, faces a wide stone courtyard. The square outside is a lively evening gathering spot.
On the slopes of Lingshan in the eastern suburbs, these tombs are traditionally said to hold two Muslim missionaries who came to Quanzhou in the Tang dynasty. A stone tablet nearby records that the admiral Zheng He came here to burn incense in 1417. The hillside is peaceful and rarely crowded.
By East Lake, this museum tells the story of Quanzhou as a great port of the maritime Silk Road. Its centrepiece is the hull of a Song dynasty ocean-going ship excavated nearby in 1974. Other halls show model ships and gravestones carved for Muslim, Christian and Hindu traders who lived here.
One of the oldest streets in Quanzhou runs west from the old centre to Kaiyuan Temple, lined with red-brick houses, snack stalls, tea shops and small cafes. The twin pagodas appear at the end of the lanes, making this the classic old-town walk. Try peanut soup or an oyster omelette along the way.
On a low hill above the Jinjiang River estuary east of the old town, this Song-era Taoist temple honours Zhenwu, the Dark Warrior, to whom officials and sailors prayed for safe voyages. Ceremonies to the sea were once held here. Climb the stone steps for wide views over the river mouth.
Just north of the city, this forested scenic area is a favourite escape from the heat, with paths climbing past Taoist and Buddhist carvings, temples and viewpoints. The memorial stupa of the monk Hongyi, who spent his last years in Quanzhou, lies on its slopes. Allow half a day and bring water.
At the foot of Qingyuan Mountain sits a huge stone figure of Laozi, the founder of Taoism, carved from a single boulder during the Song dynasty. The bearded sage sits with a calm smile, and many touch his nose or knees for luck. It is a short walk from the entrance gate of the scenic area.
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