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Makassar has looked out to sea for centuries. As the port of the Sultanate of Gowa it traded spices and goods across the archipelago until the Dutch East India Company took control in the 1660s, and today it is the capital of South Sulawesi and the largest city in eastern Indonesia.
The colonial core grew around Fort Rotterdam, whose walls still enclose white Dutch-era halls and the La Galigo Museum. A short walk south, Losari Beach becomes the city's living room each evening, with crowds gathering to watch the sunset over the Makassar Strait, a mosque standing on stilts in the bay and food carts serving pisang epe. Wooden pinisi schooners still load cargo at Paotere Harbour.
Makassar is also the gateway to the rest of Sulawesi. Small boats run out to coral islands such as Samalona, the limestone towers of Rammang-Rammang lie to the north in Maros, and the city is a common starting point for the long overland journey to the highlands of Tana Toraja. Seafood is the local pride, from grilled fish to rich coto makassar soup.
First built by the Sultanate of Gowa, this fort fell to the Dutch East India Company in 1667 and was rebuilt in stone with whitewashed colonial halls inside its walls. From above its plan resembles a turtle. Walk the ramparts at sunset and see the cell where Prince Diponegoro was held in exile.
Housed in old buildings within Fort Rotterdam, this museum is named after the Bugis epic Sureq Galigo and tells the history of the peoples of South Sulawesi. Displays cover traditional boats, weapons, costumes, ceramics and royal regalia. It is small; pair it with a stroll around the fort grounds.
Set in a handsome colonial-era former town hall a short walk from Fort Rotterdam, this museum traces Makassar's story from royal port to trading city. Old maps, coins, photographs and household objects fill the rooms, and the building itself is a fine piece of Dutch-era architecture.
This tall tower in central Makassar commemorates the Mandala Command, which was based in the city during the 1962 campaign over West New Guinea. Inside, dioramas and relief panels tell the story of that period. Its sharp silhouette is easy to spot and makes a handy landmark when exploring.
Standing on pillars over the water at the edge of Losari Beach, this mosque seems to float on the bay, especially when its twin domes are lit at night. It is a working place of worship, so dress modestly and avoid prayer times. Visit just before sunset, when the domes glow against the evening sky.
One of the largest mosques in eastern Indonesia, Al-Markaz Al-Islami stands in central Makassar with a tall minaret and a broad prayer hall spread over several levels. It also serves as an Islamic centre for the region. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times when dressed modestly.
Rising on reclaimed land at the Center Point of Indonesia near Losari, this striking mosque is topped by a cluster of small red and orange domes that look like a crown on the shoreline. It was designed by architect Ridwan Kamil and looks best from the waterfront in the late afternoon light.
The Sacred Heart Cathedral is the seat of the Archdiocese of Makassar and one of the oldest churches in Sulawesi, dating from the end of the 19th century. Its pale facade and spired towers stand out in the old quarter near Karebosi Field. Visitors are welcome to look inside outside Mass times.
Makassar's famous seafront is a long promenade rather than a swimming beach, where crowds gather each evening to watch the sun drop into the Makassar Strait. Platforms carry the city's name in giant letters. Food carts sell pisang epe, grilled bananas pressed flat and topped with palm-sugar syrup.
In the north of the city, this old harbour is lined with wooden pinisi and other traditional cargo boats, a living link to the seafaring Bugis and Makassar peoples. Early morning is the best time to watch crews loading cargo, and the nearby fish market is busiest then too, so wear sturdy shoes.
A tiny coral island ringed by white sand, Samalona lies a short boat ride off Makassar's coast and is the easiest island escape from the city. Snorkellers find reefs close to shore, and simple stalls serve grilled fish. Charter a boat from the waterfront and agree the return time before you leave.
North of Makassar in Maros Regency, this landscape of jagged limestone towers is best seen from a small boat along the Pute River, which slips between rock walls and mangroves to the rice fields of Berua village. Leave early to avoid the midday heat, and pair it with the waterfalls of Bantimurung.
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