Haida Gwaii British Columbia Haida Culture and Rainforest

Why visit Haida Gwaii

This is a place with few big chain stores and no grand resorts. Visitors come for the outdoors, for artisan galleries and for Haida culture, which has deep roots here.

The islands have been called the Misty Islands for their moist, mild climate, and nature still dominates. Old-growth rainforest, giant Sitka spruce and western red cedar grow almost to the shoreline.

The two largest islands, Graham and Moresby, dominate the visitor's itinerary, and the main communities are linked by Highway 16 and a short ferry. It is a place to slow down and listen.

Graham Island and the main communities

Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay

This is the premier cultural centre and museum of the Haida people, just south of a historic village site known as the Town of Sea Lions.

The Haida Heritage Centre is the premier cultural centre and museum of the Haida people. Photo: Susan Clarke, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Daajing Giids

Known as Queen Charlotte until 2022, this village on Skidegate Inlet is the arrival point for ferries and the main tourist centre. It has the visitor information, shops and galleries you need, and a harbour for watching boats.

Daajing Giids, formerly Queen Charlotte, lies on Skidegate Inlet. Photo: Shawn from Airdrie, Canada, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

Skidegate

This Haida community sits on the southeast coast of Graham Island and is the northern terminal of the BC Ferries link to Alliford Bay on Moresby Island. The Haida Heritage Centre lies along its eastern edge.

Skidegate is the northern terminal for the ferry to Moresby Island. Photo: Karen Neoh, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Naikoon Provincial Park

Nearly 70,000 hectares of lush rainforest and sandy beaches make up this park on the northeast of Graham Island. It is a place for beach walks, camping and quiet.

Naikoon Provincial Park protects rainforest and sandy beaches on northeastern Graham Island. Photo: Sue Womersley, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Tlell

This small community on the east coast of Graham Island is the gateway to Naikoon and sits beside the Tlell River. The area has cabins and bed and breakfasts and is a good base for beachcombing.

Tlell lies on the east coast of Graham Island. Photo: The Interior, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

Port Clements and the White Raven

Port Clements was home to a male albino raven that became a local celebrity and was preserved by taxidermists after his death in 1997. He is on display at the Port Clements Historical Society museum.

Port Clements has a museum that displays the preserved White Raven. Photo: Christine Rondeau from Vancouver, Canada, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Masset

The main settlement at the north end of the islands sits on Masset Sound and is the western terminus of the Yellowhead Highway.

Masset is the main settlement at the north end of the islands. Photo: Sam Beebe/Ecotrust, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

Moresby Island and Gwaii Haanas

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Gwaii Haanas protects 138 islands in the south and is managed jointly by the Haida Nation and Parks Canada.

Gwaii Haanas protects an archipelago of 138 islands in southern Haida Gwaii. Photo: Christine Rondeau from Vancouver, Canada, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

SGang Gwaay Llnagaay

The abandoned Haida village on Anthony Island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the best known place on the islands for seeing totem poles in their original positions.

SGang Gwaay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with mortuary and house poles still standing in place. Photo: Yvrsigmatech, Wikimedia Commons, Public domain

Food and local flavors

Traditional seafood is the true local cuisine, and it centres on wild salmon, halibut, razor clams, seaweed and herring roe on kelp. Known as k'aaw, the roe on kelp is among the most highly valued foods in Haida communities.

Many locals harvest their own seafood, so it can be hard to find for purchase. Ask at the Haida Heritage Centre cafe or in Daajing Giids about what is in season, and respect local protocols if you are offered a taste.

Popular dishes to try in Haida Gwaii

Where to stay

Daajing Giids is the main base, close to ferries, the Haida Heritage Centre and visitor services.

Masset, at the north end, suits travellers heading for Naikoon's northern beaches, and it has flights from Vancouver and Prince Rupert.

Sandspit is the base for those flying in from Vancouver or setting out for Gwaii Haanas on Moresby Island.

Tlell has small inns, cabins and campgrounds near the beach and is ideal for travellers who want quiet.

Where to stay in Haida Gwaii

Best time to visit

The climate is mild and wet, with heavy rainfall and rain on around two thirds of days, even in sheltered areas.

Late spring to early autumn is the most practical season, with the best ferry and flight schedules, the Watchmen in residence at heritage sites from May to September, and seabirds nesting along the coast from May to August.

Getting there and getting around

Daily flights run from Vancouver to Sandspit with Air Canada and to Masset with Pacific Coastal Airlines. BC Ferries sails from Prince Rupert to Skidegate on Graham Island, a crossing of seven to eight hours, usually a few days a week and sometimes overnight. Reservations are strongly recommended.

Highway 16 links Skidegate with Masset, and rental cars are available on the islands. A short BC Ferries crossing connects Skidegate with Alliford Bay on Moresby Island.

A suggested itinerary

Practical tips

• Book ferries, flights and accommodation as far ahead as you can, especially for summer.
• Gwaii Haanas requires an orientation and advance planning, so book through Parks Canada or a licensed operator.
• Pack waterproof layers, since rain falls on most days.
• Ask permission before photographing people, and treat poles, villages and sacred sites with respect.
• Check logging road conditions at a visitor centre and carry a map, since cell service is limited.