Guayaquil

About Guayaquil

Ecuador's largest city and busiest port sits on the wide, brown Guayas River, hot and humid and full of energy. Guayaquil was founded by the Spanish in the 16th century, declared its independence on 9 October 1820 and was rebuilt many times after fires, most famously the great fire of 1896. For years travellers only passed through on the way to the Galápagos, but a long programme of urban renewal has given the city real reasons to stay.

The heart of that change is the Malecón 2000, a riverside promenade of gardens, monuments and museums. From its northern end, the 444 steps of Las Peñas climb Cerro Santa Ana past brightly painted houses to a lighthouse with sweeping views. In the centre, land iguanas lounge under the trees of Seminario Park beside the cathedral.

Beyond downtown, a pedestrian bridge leads to the wetlands of Santay Island, and the dry forest of Cerro Blanco shelters rare great green macaws. The marble tombs of the General Cemetery tell the city's history, and no visit is complete without a bowl of encebollado.