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Fez is the oldest of Morocco's imperial cities, founded in the late eighth and early ninth centuries and long regarded as the country's spiritual and intellectual center. Its old medina, Fez el-Bali, is one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world, a dense web of lanes, workshops, mosques and homes recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Craftsmanship here follows traditions passed down through generations.
Most visits start at Bab Bou Jeloud, the blue-tiled gate that leads into the medina's main streets. The Bou Inania Madrasa is a masterpiece of carved stucco, cedar and zellij tilework, and the smaller Al-Attarine Madrasa is equally refined. The Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University, founded in the ninth century, is often cited as one of the oldest continuously operating educational institutions, though non-Muslims can only glimpse inside. Nearby stands the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II, a revered shrine. From terraces above the Chouara Tannery, visitors watch hides being dyed in stone vats, and Place Seffarine rings with the sound of coppersmiths.
A local guide helps on a first day, since the medina is easy to get lost in. The Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts and the Dar Batha museum offer quieter interludes. The grand gates of the Royal Palace lie in Fes el-Jdid, the newer medieval quarter.
WiserMap travel guideFez Morocco Medina Madrasas Tanneries and RiadsExplore Fez: Bab Bou Jeloud, Bou Inania and Al-Attarine madrasas, the Chouara tannery, Fes el-Jdid, Merenid Tombs, Fassi food, riads and day trips.Read the guide
Famous gateway to Fes el-Bali, built in 1913 with blue tiles on the outside and green tiles on the inside, framing the minarets beyond. It is the main entrance for visitors and the start of the two main streets, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira. Many cafes nearby are good for people watching.
The Royal Palace in Fes el-Jdid is closed to the public, but its ceremonial brass doors framed by zellige tile and carved cedar on Place des Alaouites are one of the most photographed sights in the city. Visit early in the morning for good light and fewer people, then walk on to the Mellah next door.
Fourteenth-century Marinid school with superb carved cedar, stucco and tilework, and one of the few religious buildings in Fez open to non-Muslims. Across the street, the remains of a water clock can be seen on the wall. It closes during Friday prayers. Dress modestly, and look up to see the carved ceilings.
Small Marinid madrasa from the 1320s next to the spice market, considered one of the finest examples of Moroccan decorative art, with a courtyard covered in zellige, stucco and carved wood. Climb to the roof if allowed for a peek at the Qarawiyyin Mosque roofs. Visit early in the day.
Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, Al-Qarawiyyin is often called the oldest continually operating university in the world. Non-Muslims cannot enter the mosque, but they can glimpse its courtyard through open doors. The restored library has occasional public access. Respect people at prayer.
Shrine and mausoleum of Moulay Idris II, the ninth-century founder of Fez, deep in the medina and one of the most venerated sites in Morocco. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but the doorway shows its decorated interior, and the streets around sell candles and nougat for pilgrims. Mind the wooden bars at the entrances.
The largest and oldest tannery in Fez, where leather is soaked in round stone vats of dye and lime, a scene unchanged for centuries. Visitors view it from terraces of leather shops around it, often given a sprig of mint for the smell. Morning is best for color. Expect the shop to pitch its goods.
Small square full of the sound of coppersmiths hammering pots, pans and cauldrons, next to the old Qarawiyyin library. The surrounding souks are organized by craft, including dyers, woodworkers and the Henna Souk. Wander here in the morning when workshops are busiest, and haggle for handmade goods.
Museum in a restored eighteenth-century funduq, or merchants' inn, in the medina, with displays of carved cedar doors, tools and furniture. Next door is the decorated Nejjarine Fountain. The rooftop cafe offers views over the medina roofs. It is a calm stop to take a break from the busy souks.
Hispano-Moorish palace built in the late nineteenth century near Bab Bou Jeloud, now a museum of Islamic arts, with ceramics, embroidery, woodwork and astrolabes. Its Andalusian garden is a peaceful place to sit. The famous blue Fez pottery is a highlight. Check opening hours, as they change.
The Jewish quarter of Fez, founded in the fifteenth century next to the Royal Palace, known for its houses with wooden balconies facing the street. The restored Ibn Danan Synagogue and the large white Jewish cemetery are open to visitors. Tip the caretakers, and go on to the Jnan Sbil Gardens nearby.
Historic royal gardens between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali, restored in 2011, with a lake, fountains, bamboo groves and palm-lined paths. It is a quiet green escape from the medina, popular with local families. Entry is free. Visit in the late afternoon, then walk through Bab Bou Jeloud for dinner.
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