Saint John New Brunswick Reversing Falls and City Market
Saint John is a working seaport on the Bay of Fundy and the oldest incorporated city in Canada. Its tides are some of the biggest in the world, and they push the Saint John River backward through a narrow gorge at the Reversing Falls. Uptown has a compact grid of brick and stone buildings rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1877, and the city has big parks, forts and a famous market. Cruise passengers and road trippers both find plenty to do here.
By WiserMap TravelUpdated October 20269 places11 min read
Best timeSummer and early autumn bring the warmest weather and the most open attractions, though fog is common near the bay.
How longTwo days cover the main sights, and a third adds the Geopark and coast.
Getting thereFly to Saint John Airport, drive in from Moncton or Fredericton, or cross by ferry from Digby, Nova Scotia.
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Why visit Saint John
Saint John was incorporated in 1785, when Loyalist refugees from the American Revolution united the communities of Parrtown and Carleton on either side of the harbour. Shipbuilding made it famous, and its harbour stays ice-free all year, so ships still arrive in every season.
Today the city mixes historic streets with rough natural scenery. You can watch the tide change the flow of a river in the morning, then browse a nineteenth century market, and still have time for a hike beside a lake or a walk on a salt marsh.
The harbour, the falls and the forts
Reversing Falls
The Saint John River squeezes through a narrow gorge before it meets the bay. Underwater ledges create rapids, and when the tide is high the flow reverses for several hours. The lookout is free and the view is best near slack tide, so check the tide schedule, and note that in the spring freshet the river may overpower the reversal.
Fort Howe sits on a hill in the North End and gives a panoramic view of the city and harbour. British forces built it in 1779, and it is a short, rewarding stop. Allow forty-five minutes, and come on a clear day when the view carries across the water.
Fort Howe was built in 1779 above the harbour and now offers panoramic views of the city. Photo: Magu2k at English Wikipedia, Wikimedia Commons, Public domain
Carleton Martello Tower
This stone tower on the West Side was begun for the War of 1812, but the war ended before it was finished in 1815. It later served Canadian troops on and off for nearly eighty years and is now a National Historic Site. Parts of the tower have been closed for renovation, so check the current status before you go.
The Carleton Martello Tower was begun for the War of 1812 and is now a National Historic Site. Photo: Isaac Erb, Wikimedia Commons, Public domain
Harbour Passage
A paved walking path follows the waterfront from the Uptown boardwalk toward the old museum on Douglas Avenue. It is a pleasant way to link Uptown with the North End on foot or by bike.
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Uptown and the heritage core
Saint John City Market
The market opened in 1876, and it is the oldest continuously operated farmers market in Canada, with a charter that dates to 1785. Its roof of wooden trusses resembles an inverted ship's keel, and some businesses have operated here for more than a century. Allow an hour to browse seafood, bakers and craft stalls.
King Square is the heart of Uptown, with gardens, monuments and a bandstand and fountain at the center. The old Loyalist Burial Ground beside it has cobblestone paths past graves more than two centuries old. It is a good place to sit after the market.
King Square is the heart of Uptown Saint John, with a bandstand and fountain at its center. Photo: Hayden Soloviev, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0
Imperial Theatre
This historic theatre faces the square and hosts everything from plays to rock concerts. Tours are offered in the summer and on cruise ship days. Check the schedule if you want to see inside.
The cathedral in Waterloo Village is a Gothic Revival landmark with a tall spire, detailed stonework and stained glass. It was completed in 1885, and it is still an active place of worship, so be respectful during services.
The cathedral on Waterloo Street is a prominent example of Gothic Revival architecture. Photo: Cusack5239, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
Loyalist House
Built in 1817, Loyalist House was the home of the Merritt family for more than a century and is now a museum and National Historic Site on Union Street. It shows how a prosperous Loyalist family lived in the early city.
New Brunswick Museum
The New Brunswick Museum is Canada's oldest continuing museum, with roots going back to 1842. It is a good rainy day stop to learn about the province's natural history and the Bay of Fundy.
Parks and nature
Rockwood Park
Rockwood Park covers about 2,200 acres in the North End, with ten lakes and about 55 trails and footpaths. Calvert Vaux, a designer of Central Park in New York, laid out the original design in the nineteenth century. Allow half a day for walking, biking or a picnic by a lake.
Rockwood Park is a large city park with lakes and many trails, designed by Calvert Vaux. Photo: sima.b.hashemi, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0
Irving Nature Park
On the West Side, this 600 acre park sits between a salt marsh and the Bay of Fundy. Trails lead through woods, marsh and beach, with lookouts over the sea. It is open to motor vehicles from May through October, so check the season before you drive in.
Saint John anchors the Stonehammer UNESCO Geopark, the first geopark in North America, which preserves rocks as old as the Precambrian, some perhaps a billion years old. Check the Geopark's own website for outings and sites.
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Food and local flavors
Saint John eats from the Fundy waters and the river valley. Lobster and seafood chowder, a creamy soup of local fish and shellfish, appear on most waterfront menus. The City Market sells fresh seafood and baked goods, and on Saturdays it adds food from around the world.
Look for dulse, a red seaweed eaten as a salty snack, and for fiddleheads, the tightly coiled young ferns that arrive in spring and are cooked as a green vegetable. They make good souvenirs and market snacks, especially in spring and early summer.
Popular dishes to try in Saint John
Dulse Look for dulse, a red seaweed eaten as a salty snack, and for fiddleheads, the tightly coiled young ferns that arrive in spring and are cooked as a green vegetable.Photo: Paulo O from Halifax, Canada, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0Fiddleheads Look for dulse, a red seaweed eaten as a salty snack, and for fiddleheads, the tightly coiled young ferns that arrive in spring and are cooked as a green vegetable.Photo: Ross Dunn, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0Seafood chowder Lobster and seafood chowder, a creamy soup of local fish and shellfish, appear on most waterfront menus.Photo: Daderot, Wikimedia Commons, CC0Lobster Lobster and seafood chowder, a creamy soup of local fish and shellfish, appear on most waterfront menus.Photo: Nick Ares, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0
Where to stay
Uptown suits first-time visitors, because the market, King Square, the theatre and the harbour are all within walking distance. Many restaurants are here, and a pedway system links several buildings, which helps in winter.
Waterloo Village is a short walk from Uptown and suits travelers who like quieter streets and a view of the cathedral spire. It is a good choice for couples and anyone who wants to be near the center without the crowds.
The West Side, including Carleton, suits visitors with cars who want the Martello Tower, Irving Nature Park and the ferry terminal nearby. It also has views back across the harbour to Uptown.
Where to stay in Saint John
Uptown Where to stayUptown suits first-time visitors, because the market, King Square, the theatre and the harbour are all within walking distance.Photo: Quintin Soloviev, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0Waterloo Village Waterloo Village is a short walk from Uptown and suits travelers who like quieter streets and a view of the cathedral spire.Photo: No machine-readable author provided. ChrisErb assumed (based on cop…, Wikimedia Commons, Public domainWest Side The West Side, including Carleton, suits visitors with cars who want the Martello Tower, Irving Nature Park and the ferry terminal nearby.Photo: King of Hearts, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0Saint John old town One of the best areas to base yourself in Saint John.Photo: Igor123121, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
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Best time to visit
Summer days are usually warm, often reaching the mid twenties in Celsius, and fog from the bay can cool the coast quickly. It is the best season for the nature parks, and cruise ships bring extra visitors to Uptown on many days. Autumn is calmer and still pleasant for walking.
Winters are cold with snow, though the bay does not freeze and the harbour stays open. Late autumn and early winter are the wettest months, and spring trails can be muddy. Tides change daily, so time your Reversing Falls visit with the schedule, and check the city's events listings for festivals during your dates.
Getting there and getting around
Saint John Airport, about 15 kilometers east northeast of Uptown, has flights from Toronto, Montreal and Ottawa. By road, the city is about 107 kilometers from the St. Stephen border crossing, and the route from Fredericton along Highway 7 has a risk of moose collisions at certain times of day and year. Maritime Bus connects Saint John with Moncton and Fredericton, and there is no passenger train.
Ferries run from Digby, Nova Scotia, operated by Bay Ferries, with crossing times of about two and a half hours. Once in the city, Uptown is easy to walk on its simple grid, Saint John Transit serves other districts, and taxis and rental cars are available.
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A suggested itinerary
First day
Start at the City Market, then walk through King Square to the Imperial Theatre and the Loyalist burial ground. After lunch, visit Loyalist House and take Harbour Passage toward Fort Howe for the sunset view.
Second day
Visit the Reversing Falls near the tide change, then continue to the Carleton Martello Tower and Irving Nature Park. End with a seafood dinner in Uptown.
Third day
Spend the day at Rockwood Park, or join a Geopark outing and visit the New Brunswick Museum if the weather turns wet.
Practical tips
Write Saint John in full, since locals prefer it to St. John, which is the name of a different city.
Check tide times before you plan a visit to the Reversing Falls.
Bring layers, as fog and sea breezes can make summer evenings cool.
Drive carefully on rural highways at dawn and dusk because of moose.
Confirm that the Carleton Martello Tower is open before you go.
Visit Irving Nature Park between May and October if you plan to drive in.
Wear walking shoes for the hilly streets and park trails.
Use the pedway system to stay warm and dry in winter weather.
