Smithers British Columbia Twin Falls and Fossils
Smithers is a small town in the Bulkley Valley of northwestern British Columbia, set beneath the glacier-topped Hudson Bay Mountain. Its Main Street follows an alpine building theme, complete with a statue of a man blowing an alpine horn.
- Best timeJune to September for hiking, with winter for skiing.
- How longAllow two or three days for the town and the valley.
- Getting thereFly from Vancouver, ride the VIA Rail train or drive Highway 16.
Why visit Smithers
Smithers was founded in 1913 as a divisional point on the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway and was named after the railway's chairman, Sir Alfred Smithers. The valley is the traditional territory of the Wet'suwet'en.
Travelers come for the setting. A glacier looks down on town, trails start close to the main street, and some of the most interesting day trips in the north begin right at the edge of the valley.
In town
Main Street
A bylaw requires downtown businesses to build in an alpine style, and Main Street has carried the theme since 1972. Walk its length to see shopfronts, cafes and small shops, with the mountain behind them. Allow an hour or two and check shop hours, since some close on Sundays. 
Alpine Al
The fibreglass figure of Alpine Al, sometimes called the Alpenman, stands at the entrance to the main street and has become the town symbol. It is a popular photo spot, and locals use the costume at community events. Stop for a quick snapshot on your way in. 
Bulkley Valley Museum
The museum explores the story of the valley, from the Wet'suwet'en and other First Nations to the settlers and railway builders. Allow an hour, and check the opening days because the schedule is limited.
The railway station and Alfred Park
The old station building and Alfred Park sit at one end of Main Street, a reminder of the railway that created the town. Both are an easy stop on a walk through downtown.
Della Herman Theatre
The Della Herman Theatre is the main venue for shows and performances in Smithers, and the valley has a strong reputation for music and the arts. Check the local listings for concerts or plays during your stay.
Smithers Visitor Centre
The visitor centre on Court Street is the best first stop for current trail conditions, event dates and maps. Staff can tell you which roads are open and which viewpoints are worth the drive that week.
Hudson Bay Mountain and the valley trails
Hudson Bay Mountain
Hudson Bay Mountain is the peak that dominates the skyline, and its resort offers skiing in winter and hiking and horseback riding in summer. In winter, the Rotary Community Trail to Town runs 8 km from the mountain into Smithers. Plan a full day, and check lift and trail conditions before you go. 
Crater Lake
A trail from the end of the road at the ski area leads past rugged scenery to Crater Lake, with views of the Telkwa Mountains. It is a good half-day or full-day walk in summer.
Twin Falls
The path to Twin Falls is only a few hundred metres, mostly uphill, on a wide and well packed trail. From the viewing platform you can see three sets of falls dropping toward Lake Kathlyn below.
Glacier Gulch
For experienced hikers, the Glacier Gulch trail climbs about 1,000 metres to the base of the Hudson Bay Glacier. The route is long and steep, and the views repay the effort. Allow most of a day, and turn back if the weather changes. 
Day trips from Smithers
Driftwood Canyon Provincial Park
About 10 km northeast of town, this small park protects Eocene fossil beds roughly 50 million years old, including insects and ancient fish and plants. A short interpretive trail leads to the shale cliff. Fossil collecting is not allowed, so look but do not take. 
Telkwa
Telkwa is a village about 15 km southeast, where the Telkwa and Bulkley rivers meet. Visit the Telkwa Museum and explore the former townsite of Aldermere, then picnic at Eddy Park beside the Bulkley River. Allow half a day. 
Witset and the Bulkley canyon
Witset, formerly Moricetown, is a Wet'suwet'en village about 31 km from Smithers. The Bulkley River squeezes through a narrow gorge here and drops over rapids where salmon pass. Treat the place with respect, ask before photographing people and follow local signs. 
Babine Lake
Babine Lake is the longest natural lake in British Columbia, at 153 km. Roads reach it roughly 105 km northeast of Smithers via Highway 16 and a forestry service road, so check the road status first. Plan a full day, with fishing, paddling and long views. 
Food and local flavors
The Bulkley and Skeena watersheds are known for sockeye salmon, and the Babine River is the main sockeye tributary of the Skeena. Look for salmon on local menus in season.
Homemade pie is a regular feature at downtown cafes, where soups, sandwiches and comfort dishes are served, some in a Ukrainian style. Smithers also has a local brewery for an evening drink.
Popular dishes to try in Smithers
Where to stay
Main Street is the most convenient base, with guesthouses, inns and cafes within walking distance.
Telkwa, about 15 km southeast, offers a smaller-village feel and is handy for travelers on the highway, with quiet streets and river access.
Hudson Bay Mountain is the choice for skiers who want to be close to the lifts, although beds there are limited, so book early or stay in town and drive up.
Where to stay in Smithers
Best time to visit
Summer is warm, with highs often just below 30 degrees Celsius, cool nights and the most sunshine in August.
Winters are cold and snowy, with a January average around minus 9 degrees Celsius and about two metres of snow a year, which makes this a good season for skiing. Spring and autumn are short transition seasons.
Getting there and getting around
Smithers sits on Highway 16, the Yellowhead, about 370 km west of Prince George and 68 km east of New Hazelton. Smithers Airport has flights from Vancouver in about an hour and a half.
Local buses are limited and the only taxi service closed in 2020, so most visitors rent a car. Trails, falls and day trip sights are spread across the valley. Keep the tank full on longer drives, check road conditions on forestry roads and carry water and a spare tire.
A suggested itinerary
First day
Walk Main Street, visit the museum and meet Alpine Al.
Second day
Head to Hudson Bay Mountain for a hike to Crater Lake in summer, or ski in winter.
Third day
Visit Driftwood Canyon and the Bulkley canyon at Witset, or take a longer drive toward Babine Lake before heading on along Highway 16.
Practical tips
- Carry bear awareness gear and follow local advice on trails.
- Check forestry road conditions before heading to Babine Lake.
- Bring layers, because mountain weather changes quickly.
- Do not collect fossils at Driftwood Canyon.
- Be respectful when visiting First Nations communities and sites.
WISERMAP PLACESmithers: photos, reviews & things to doSee traveler photos and reviews, or share your own →
More places to visit
All travel guides →
Nelson, British Columbia
Nelson British Columbia Baker Street and Kootenay Lake
Sooke, British Columbia
Sooke British Columbia Whiffin Spit and Sooke Potholes
Ucluelet, British Columbia
Ucluelet British Columbia Wild Pacific Trail and Whale Tours
Port Hardy, British Columbia
Port Hardy British Columbia Cape Scott and Telegraph Cove
Revelstoke, British Columbia
Revelstoke British Columbia Big Mountain Skiing and Trails
Fernie, British Columbia