Choose wisely. Connect locally.Add your business Martha's Vineyard lies just off the southwest corner of Cape Cod, a short ferry ride from Woods Hole, yet it feels a world apart.
This guide covers the best places to visit on Martha's Vineyard, how to get there and around without a car, what to eat, where to stay and how to time your trip.
The Vineyard is large enough to hold a remarkable variety of landscapes, from sandy plains and ponds in the east to hilly moors, farmland and clay cliffs in the west. Islanders talk about going down-island, meaning the busier eastern towns of Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs and Edgartown, and up-island, meaning rural West Tisbury, Chilmark and Aquinnah.
The island's history is just as layered. The Wampanoag have lived here for thousands of years, and the Wampanoag Tribe of Gay Head (Aquinnah) still holds land around the western cliffs.
In the heart of Oak Bluffs, the Martha's Vineyard Camp Meeting Association grounds, also known as Wesleyan Grove, hold more than three hundred tiny Victorian cottages painted in bright colors and trimmed with fanciful wooden lacework.
The gingerbread cottages of Wesleyan Grove in Oak Bluffs grew out of a nineteenth-century Methodist camp meeting. Photo: Krmanizz, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
Close to the harbor, the Flying Horses Carousel has been delighting riders since the nineteenth century and is recognized as one of the oldest operating platform carousels in the country. Its hand-carved horses have real horsehair manes, and riders still reach for the brass ring.
The Flying Horses Carousel in Oak Bluffs is one of the oldest operating platform carousels in the United States. Photo: Jared at en.wikipedia, Wikimedia Commons, Public domain
Edgartown was the island's whaling port, and its streets of white clapboard captains' houses, picket fences and gardens are among the best preserved in New England. Walk along Main Street to the columned Old Whaling Church, still used for concerts and lectures, then down to the harbor.
A short path leads across the sand to the Edgartown Lighthouse at the harbor mouth, a lovely spot at sunset. Allow half a day.
The Old Whaling Church in Edgartown was built in 1843 during the height of the island's whaling era. Photo: C.S. Imming, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
From Edgartown's waterfront, the tiny Chappy Ferry makes the short crossing to Chappaquiddick, a quiet island of woods, ponds and beaches.
Vineyard Haven, the main village of Tisbury, is the island's year-round port, with a wooden boat building tradition, a walkable Main Street of bookshops and galleries, and a harbor full of classic sailing vessels.
Vineyard Haven harbor in Tisbury is the island's main year-round ferry port. Photo: Tichnor Bros. Inc., Boston, Mass., Wikimedia Commons, Public domain
Running alongside Beach Road between Oak Bluffs and Edgartown, State Beach is a long, narrow strip of sand on Nantucket Sound with gentle, shallow water that is ideal for families.
Joseph Sylvia State Beach stretches for about two miles between Oak Bluffs and Edgartown. Photo: NOAA Photo Library, Wikimedia Commons, Public domain
South Beach, also known as Katama Beach, faces the open Atlantic south of Edgartown and stretches for miles. The surf is stronger here, attracting bodysurfers and families who want big waves, and the beach is wide enough that it rarely feels crowded.
In Chilmark, Lucy Vincent Beach is backed by striking clay bluffs and considered one of the island's most beautiful. In summer it is reserved for town residents and renters with passes, but it opens to the public in the off-season.
At the far western tip of the island, the Aquinnah Cliffs rise from the sea in bands of red, ochre, white and gray clay laid down over millions of years. A short walk from the parking area leads to an overlook with sweeping views of the cliffs, the ocean and, on clear days, the Elizabeth Islands.
Gay Head Light was moved back from the eroding cliff edge in 2015 to protect it. Photo: John Phelan, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
The little fishing village of Menemsha, in Chilmark, has weathered shacks, lobster pots stacked on the docks and a harbor of working boats. It is one of the few places on this coast where you can watch the sun set over the water, and on summer evenings people gather on the beach and jetty to see it go down, often with takeout seafood from the fish markets by the harbor.
Menemsha is a working fishing village in Chilmark known for its harbor sunsets. Photo: EgorovaSvetlana, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
West Tisbury is the island's agricultural heart, with farm stands, stone walls and the Grange Hall, where a popular farmers market is held through the growing season. The Polly Hill Arboretum, created on a former sheep farm by horticulturist Polly Hill, has meadows, a dogwood allée and collections of trees and shrubs grown from seed.
The Polly Hill Arboretum in West Tisbury grew from a former sheep farm into a living collection of trees and shrubs. Photo: John Phelan, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
The island's food is all about the sea and the farm. Lobster rolls, steamed lobsters, clam chowder, fried clams and fresh local striped bass and bluefish are summer staples, and the fish markets in Menemsha are a favorite stop for picnic seafood eaten on the docks at sunset.
Farms in West Tisbury and Chilmark supply sweet corn, heirloom tomatoes, berries and fresh flowers, which you can buy at roadside stands and the farmers market.
Popular dishes to try in Martha's Vineyard
Edgartown suits travelers who want historic inns, upscale dining, harbor views and easy access to South Beach and Chappaquiddick.
Vineyard Haven is practical and walkable from the year-round ferry, with a more local feel and good bus connections across the island.
Up-island towns such as West Tisbury, Chilmark and Aquinnah are best for those seeking quiet, rural rentals and nature.
Where to stay in Martha's Vineyard
July and August are high season, when the island's population swells many times over.
June and September offer warm weather, quieter beaches and easier logistics, and the ocean is often warmest in early September.
From late autumn to spring, the island becomes a peaceful year-round community. Many seasonal businesses close, but walks on empty beaches, cozy inns and off-season access to some restricted beaches have their own appeal.
By ferry: The Steamship Authority runs year-round ferries from Woods Hole to Vineyard Haven, with seasonal service to Oak Bluffs.
By air: Martha's Vineyard Airport, in the island's interior, has regional flights from Boston and seasonal service from New York and other cities.
Parking for the ferry: Parking near the Woods Hole terminal is very limited, so ferry passengers usually leave cars in Steamship Authority lots in Falmouth or Bourne and take free shuttle buses to the dock.
Getting around: You do not need a car for a down-island stay.
Arrive in Vineyard Haven, visit the Martha's Vineyard Museum and stroll Main Street.
Cycle the bike path along State Beach to Edgartown, stopping for a swim.
Take the bus or drive up-island. Visit the West Tisbury farmers market or the Polly Hill Arboretum, continue to the Aquinnah Cliffs and Gay Head Light, and end the day in Menemsha with seafood and the sunset.
Spend a relaxed morning at South Beach, then browse shops and galleries before an evening ferry back to the mainland.
Vineyard Haven is the island's year-round gateway port.
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